ジュエリー&ピープル Patcharavipa (パトゥチャラヴィパ)バンコクとロンドンを拠点に活動する才能豊かなジュエラー

タイの近代化を進めた大企業家の血筋を引くジュエラー

ナイ・ラート・パラヤ・バークディノラセウス(愛称Mr.ラート、1872−1945)はシャム王国の企業家でパイオニア、それ以上にクリエーターとして知られています。シャムとは現在のタイ。今でもタイで最も成功した人物の一人に上げられます。彼は生涯を通じて数多くの産業を生み出し、運送業や不動産業の近代化に取り組みました。

革新的であることを重んじた彼は、王室にも変革をもたらしました。

それから1世紀ほどが経過し、ラートの手腕や独創性が、ひ孫パトゥチャラヴィパ・ボディラトゥナングクラにその血筋が現れた時、周囲は喜びました。

タイで生まれ、バンコクとロンドンを拠点に活動するこのジュエリーデザイナーは、子どもの頃からデザインを始め、バンコクにワークショップやショールームを立ち上げる時点で、すでにかなり名前が知られるようになっていました。

2011年、パトゥチャラヴィパはスイスのハイジュエラー、アドラーとコラボレーションし、チタンを使った軽量なジュエリーを制作しました。彼女が自分の名前を冠したジュエリーを発表したのは2014年、ロンドンの有名な美術大学セントラル・セント・マーチンズを卒業してまもなくのことです。また、GIA(米国宝石学会)で鑑定の資格を修得し、アジア宝石化学研究所でカラーストーンの鑑別を学びました。

ブランドを発表後は、ヨーロッパやバンコクのコンセプチュアルなブティックで販売し、トーマス・ウーバーがキュレーションする“Le Cabinet De Curiosités” のコレクションに入っています。

パトゥチャラヴィパの好奇心は、自然ばかりでなく、世界中のさまざまなものに向けられます。自然素材を洗練させ、身につけて楽しいものに作り替えます。

「人類史と共に歩んできたカラーストーン、ダイヤモンド、貴金属の歴史には、興味が尽きません。ジュエリーを作る工程や宝石が採掘されてから辿る過程を知ることも面白いです。宝石には必ず人間とのつながりがあり、エモーショナルな要素もあります。そんなところに引かれます」とパトゥチャラヴィパ。

彼女のジュエリーには力があります。

「ビルマ産の象牙、ココナツの皮、石が持つ神秘性……。私は、ジュエリーを強く大胆で、身につけた人に力を与えるものにしたいのです」

Co-Existence Collectionの「ソウ・ココナツ」は、完全なオーガニック。農業の支援にもなっており、彼女の強い想いが込められたコレクションです。「ソウ」という名は、タイの楽器ソウに由来します。ソウは西洋のフィドル(ヴァイオリン)に似た楽器で、ラーマ6世が初めて使ったと言います。

ココナツは、タイ中部アムパワーの数カ所の農家だけで栽培される貴重な植物です。

アムパワーは水上ボートのマーケットが有名ですが、パトゥチャラヴィパの祖父母が出会った場所で、彼女には特別な想いがあるのだそうです。

「パトゥチャラヴィパは、大胆さと品の良さを併せ持ち、人間味があり、自然体で、予想外、そんなジュエリーです。例えば、Tushroom Collectionのリングやイヤリングに施されたパヴェセッティングは独特でしょう。素材の特徴を引き出すことを重視し、日本の侘び寂びも意識しています」

Patcharavipa

Nai Lert Phraya Bhakdinoraseth (aka Lert Sreshthaputra: 22 June 1872 – 15 December 1945) was an entrepreneur, a pioneer and above all a creator. His ascent made him one of the most successful business advocates for the Kingdom of Siam, now Thailand, for which he introduced and ran numerous key businesses that unlocked the modern development of the country (mostly in transportation and real estate). First and foremost, projects had to be innovative and of critical importance to the country and in so doing Phraya Bhakdinoraseth was inspired to transform the life of the Kingdom.

With this in mind, and short of a century later, it feels as if his business acumen and creative drive were meant to be carried on. The only question was into whose hands should this responsibility fall, which is why we could not be happier that it is in the safe custody of Patcharavipa Bodiratnangkura, his great granddaughter.

A Thai born fine jewellery designer based in Bangkok and London, she started designing pieces at an early age and well before eventually founding her in-house workshop and showroom in Bangkok, her skills and training had already been widely recognised. Indeed in 2011 Patcharavipa collaborated with Swiss haute jewellers Adler, creating three unique pieces crafted entirely from lightweight titanium. Her label – named after her – was officially launched in 2014, after she graduated from the prestigious Central Saint Martins School of Art and Design in London. Patcharavipa is also a certified gemmologist from the Graduate Diamonds Program at the Gemology Institute of America and the Colored Stones Program at the Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences. Since launching, her designs have been stocked at leading concept stores Collette and Siwilai where her exclusive capsule collection became part of the renowned travelling exhibition, ‘Le Cabinet De Curiosités’ curated by founder Thomas Erber.

Patcharavipa’s ebullient curiosity leads her to find inspiration not only in nature but in many aspects of the world around us; she finds the process of refining natural materials and reworking forms into something wearable exciting. “The history of gems, diamonds, and metals from ancient times and the symbolism of jewellery throughout human history has always fascinated me. I really enjoy the process of making the jewellery itself, and tracing journeys of how each material is sourced. There’s always an emotional attachment to the sourcing process that I admire, with each piece representing a particular time and stage of one’s life”, she says. There is an inherent force in each of her pieces, a spiritual aspect that she says comes from the materials that she chooses, “whether it is the sacred ebony from Burma, the ‘Saw’ coconut shell, or the meanings and beliefs behind each gemstone. My silhouettes are also strong and bold, I create shapes that I hope will empower or uplift the wearer”, she explains.

Present in the Co-Existence Collection, The ‘Saw Coconut’ – fully organic, and a great way to support local farmers – has in particular a deep resonance with her personal history. “The name ‘Saw’ comes from the fact that the first use of the coconut was by our King Rama VI who used this particular variety to create a Thai musical instrument called a ‘Saw’, which is similar to a fiddle in the West. He found their natural grown shape to be similar to the form of a woman’s body, and the bowed shape created a beautiful sound when strung”, she notes. This coconut is important to Patcharavipa as it can only be grown by a few farmers in a province called Amphawa in Thailand, an old floating market in the days of Siam where her grandparents met and fell in love whilst selling fabrics from their long tail boats.

Patcharavipa is bold and refined. Our creations are above all human, spontaneous, unpredictable, flawed, but fearless”, she suggests, and their researched craftsmanship, the human touch, is essential. Take the new type of setting, which can be found on the ‘Polkilip Ring’ and the ‘Polki Petal Earrings’ from the Tushroom Collection, it is a type of setting that is unique to her brand. “The pave setting that we’ve used to embed the stones into our Antré texture for some of the pieces is also something new and interesting. We also pay a lot of respect to each material we use, applying the Wabi Sabi philosophy to our practices”, she adds. Patcharavipa indeed allegorises the relation between her instincts and jewellery. Textures intrigue, naturalistic touches abound; it is as if a vision for the otherworldly has been brought into fruition.

www.patcharavipa.com

Text=Olivier Dupon

Olivier Dupon is a 21st century tastemaker and author of Fine Jewelry Couture (2016), SHOE (2015), Encore! The New Aritisans (2015), Floral Contemporary (2014), The New Pâtissiers (2013), The New Jewelers (2012) and The New Artisans (2011),all published by Thames & Hudson.

INSTAGRAM 〈https://instagram.com/olivierdupon

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Boldi Tushroom Yellow Gold Diamond

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Brown Antre Object

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Co-exist Ring Brown Coconut

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Polki Petal Earrings Diamond and Black Gold

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Polkilip Yellow Gold White Diamond

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Portrait